Let's Talk About Townships

Today we visited the townships and I was actually blown away. This whole time we've been discussing the untold side of Cape Town and finally we were able to see what everyone's been so anxious to share with us. Within this beauty, there is a separate story to be told. This story is one of optimism and pride, but also of immense struggle and segregation.

The townships were created under Apartheid to separate people by race. Blacks and Coloureds were forcibly moved out of their homes between Table Mountain and the sea (District Six) to the Cape Flats where they resided in overcrowded and under-resourced communities called townships. Even today the townships are plagued by poverty, drug and alcohol abuse issues, gang violence, and HIV/AIDS. Considering that government enforced separation has been abolished, what the people of District Six lived through will leave them at an economic disadvantage for their whole lives. Many people will remain in the townships, their homes, instead of moving back to District Six. Although this lifestyle is less then desirable, we were privileged to see both sides of this spectrum and visit community members who shared their happiness and dreams with us during our visit.  

After driving through various townships, I was caught between two sides. I found myself wanting to know more and also wanting to get as far away as possible. Not from fear but from being uncomfortable. It was different from how I felt before as a minority. I felt almost celebrity like because of my race. As we drove by on our huge tour bus children waved and women approached our large group when we were walking around on the streets. When we were in Khayelitsha children followed us until we took photos of them.  It was awkward to have that much attention and I couldn't help thinking that this was entirely because of my race. 

Khayelitsha Township

We learned that even in the townships, there is a divide by race and class. Townships were classified and categorized for people of different races: coloured and African were the two predominant oppressed groups.  There was a calculated divide to separate people by land but then in the township itself the types of homes divided people into classes. Although the Apartheid ended in 1994, it is still clear that the psychological effects of this separation are still quite prevalent.  Separation is now over but still people remain separated in many aspects of life. It was sad to see but also uplifting. I left motivated because I knew that I was here to do a job and I could not wait to get involved! We discussed that even though things look bad there is so much to be done to improve the lifestyle here in the townships. I think though that it's easier to say that when we are not living in their world.  It was remarkable to drive by (or near) our internship sites and know our work was definitely needed and also exciting.

Pottery made by women in Langa township 

Vernon explained to us that roadways served as dividers for land. On one side of a major highway we witnessed  informal settlements and homes that resembled the worst living conditions we could imagine and then on the other side was a huge mall and shopping area, that's what challenged me the most. It was difficult to imagine that many people in these townships across the street would never be able to shop in this mall. Seeing this reminded me of the unmatched privilege that I have as an American and I felt awkward to come into these communities as a spectator.  Since I never will have to endure this lifestyle I was hurt by my ability to walk in see the poverty and the people then get on my bus and walk away. I wished I could have heard the stories and interacted more with all the people. Stories help us learn and understand so I will make a definite point of asking the tough questions and not leaving "too soon" next time.

While we were in the townships, three experiences stuck out in my mind that helped me to keep a positive perspective. We visited two great places where women were empowered to create artwork,such as pottery or jewelry  as a way to earn an income. This skill allowed for self expression and exploration. We had a chance to meet with the artists and women to understand their lives and journeys. This opportunity to learn to create works of art allowed women who would not find other work to earn money and provide for their families.  I was happy to buy jewelry from the artists because now I can remember the feeling of happiness and sadness that I felt when we visited the townships. In Langa, we had a fun time learning to play African drums. We were told that these drums were used as part of an after school program to keep kids involved and engaged when school ends. We had a blast banging on the drums and working together to create beats. I definitely would love to go back and learn more music and play along with the kids. It's really hard not to fall in love with everywhere we go when everyone is so welcoming.We also visited one of the most beautiful places I've seen thus far. It was called Elon Wobeni. This was a shelter which provided services to children and families infected or impacted by HIV/AIDS. We had a chance to meet with Mama Francis (the social worker)and hear about her job at the center. We also had the privilege to meet the students and afterward we got to play outside with them. In the face of vulnerability  and tragedy the children smiled and played with us. They showed us their childish side which I have a feeling they don't always get to let out. We all felt so happy that Vernon practically had to drag us away from the kids to get to our next stop.  I left smiling and promised myself I'd be back to visit the kids because they deserve it.

On our drive, we also saw  Mitchell's Plain and Tafelsig which is home to over 1 million people and is the poorest part of the townships. All of this diverse poverty and overwhelming overcrowding that is present in the townships was certainly difficult to see and comprehend  and I think that will be a great challenge going forward. From tourism to townships, this week has been a roller coaster of absolute emotional extremes and I can only hope that these feeling stay strong and vibrant so that our adventure can only get better and better as we explore the history, people, struggles, and stories of this nation.