On Thursday we
departed from UCT and headed to Ocean View near the boarder of the Western
Cape. We were all exhausted from a long
week of internships and class but I was bubbling over with excitement and also
anticipation. We were going to spend a weekend in Ocean View with host families
and learn about one community's way of life. Ocean View is a township for
classified coloured citizens who were relocated from various "white
only" areas during the apartheid years. Although the apartheid years are
over, this community is linked by their past experiences and because of this a
wonderful community has flourished. I was curious and also a bit worried. We
were assured that we would be well fed, cared for, and welcomed more than we
could have ever hoped for. So as our bus circled around Table Mountain going
higher and higher I just couldn't wait until we actually got there.
When we arrived we
got out first taste of Ocean View living by walking through the township to the
home where we would be having a community dinner. The entire time before we
arrived, we had been told that community and family are huge parts of life in Cape
Town and especially many of the townships. With this in mind, I found it
fitting that our first experience was a wonderful community meal. This was only
after we carried our bags for maybe twenty minutes. I viewed this as initiation
almost. Many people in Ocean View do not have cars and often have to carry
heavy bags to work or to neighbors regardless of the weather or weight. So with
our backpacks we walked through the township drawing attention to ourselves as
we spoke loudly and pointed out things that excited us. This feeling felt
different because often times we've come into a community and seen what there is
to see but this time we were staying. I was happy to finally have an
opportunity to interact with people in their home environments instead of just
observe. It felt like this was the way I should be learning about Cape Town
life and I was ready for the full experience. I was really tired from the day
but after a while my exhaustion turned into appreciation for the food and even
better, the company. Our meal was amazing and I am sure that I had not been
that full since before we left for Cape Town since everything was so good I
just kept eating it!
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Inside our host home. |
After dinner we all
went out separate ways to our host homes. Savitri and I were the first two to
be dropped off. We were staying with Aunti Reeni in her home. In many
communities, it is customary to call people who are older than you Autni and
Uncle. At first is was a little bit weird and even in some situations people
encouraged us to address them by their first name only but many of us continued
to call people aunti and uncle to show respect. Being a guest in someone's
community can be a challenge because often times there are cultural things that
you might not be aware of and it takes some time to understand how things
work. Aunti Reeni is a Muslim woman who
practices the Islamic religion. When we arrived she was praying her last set of
prayers for the day so we had to wait outside for just a few minutes. When we
started talking to Aunti Reeni more we learned that she is very dedicated to her
religion and she prays five times a day and is
very committed to the rules and traditions of Islam. We also learned that Aunti Reeni was
relocated to Ocean View when she was a young girl from Simons Town during the
apartheid. She told us that her home was sold to her grandfather for a small
price and then they moved out of the now designated white only area to Ocean
View. She has never been married and has lived on her own since she was old
enough to buy her own house at age twenty-five. Hearing her speak made me a bit sad because she
has had many difficulties but it was nice to be talked to in an honest manner
even though we'd only know each other for a short time.
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Aunti Reeni and Me |
When we got to Aunti
Reeni's home, I quickly realized it was a full house for such a small space.
The home has a kitchen and living room in the front, a single bedroom, a
bathroom, and a storage room. Aunti Reeni is not married and she mostly lives
alone but she is allowing her cousin's children to live with her for now while
they find work. So her small home is now home to three women and also a baby. I
realized that many people in this township give whatever they can to their
family and friend and often times they do not expect anything in return. The
girls that stay with Aunti Reeni do not pay rent but instead when they are home
they help around the house and share in that responsibility. Together they care
for the two month old baby and they live peacefully together. Nobody in the
house works so their life is not always easy. Although Aunti Reeni had a really
good job, she gave up her work after her mother passed away in 2000. Aunti
Reeni was really close with her mother because she was an only child. In
apartheid yeas, Aunti Reeni's light skin gave her many privileges that her
mother did not have. Even so, she was so intent on not leaving her mother's
side that she would never partake in
walking on the white beaches or anything like that. After her mother's death,
she explained to us that she didn't feel the same motivation as she had
previously felt and spent more time alone not working therefore, she has spent
the last twelve years living on a declining balance. She explained to us that
before that time, she was able to purchase a house in full and also afford
lavish holiday trips to resorts and tourist destinations. Now she lives a more
careful lifestyle. She is not able to buy the luxuries that she once purchased
and the charity that she used to give to her friends and family has not been
reciprocated to her now that she needs it. Aunti Reeni explained to us that she
was always an independent woman and that was something she was quite proud of
she said she would never ask for a loan she couldn't repay and she also knew
that because of her faith in God she would have everything she needed even if
she didn't have ever luxury she was used to. Seeing her pride was really inspirational to me.
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At the community concert. |
On Friday, the best
day in my opinion, we went out and did service in the Ocean View
community. A smaller group of us had the
privilege to work with the students in the Open Door after school program to
prepare a concert for the community while others went to creche, which is like daycare, to work with the kids. We met at the coordinator's house and had
just a few hours to get organized. We had to come together quickly to plan
performances and perfect musical numbers. This required a lot of listening and
teamwork but it was also really fun. After two hours we had a song ready to go
and somehow, I had a solo that I was anxiously preparing for the opening act.
We sang "Lean on Me" and "Man in the Mirror" and also
helped the kids practice the acts they had been working on before we arrived.
After a couple of hours we headed to the Methodist church and met all the kids.
They were so enthusiastic and ready to show us what they had been practicing.
The practice was fun but a little bit stressful. We had a lot to get done and
not much time. The kids were excited but they were also a bit shy so it took a
lot to get them to perform and also to remember what they were supposed to do.
One challenge was that there was no music for the kids to practice with so the
Chantel, the coordinator, was singing the songs for each group. I was impressed
by the kids' determination and that not having music did not get them down at
all. They were working and singing and dancing anyway. Once we did an initial
run through, we split up into groups to practice the parts. I liked this part
the best because I got to work with the girls to make up a dance. We needed to
make up a new dance because the old dance did not include everyone and since
not everyone was included the dance was cut from the program. We decided to
work together and learn a new dance with everyone. With about twenty minutes to
work, we started creating the animal dance for the performance. We didn't have
any music so we just learned the counts and later that night I was able to play
the music for them right before they went on stage to perform. The girl's animal dance was awesome and so cute. They were a hit even though they only practiced for a short while. The environment
was filled with excitement but also a bit of tension. The best part of the
entire afternoon was when we were not practicing at all. We all gathered around
a small round table and started singing pop songs and banging out beats on the
table. You could barely hear talking because it was so loud but the energy was
so positive. In the background the kids were doing handstands, tricks, and
dance moves mostly to show off but also to have fun! They were excited by our
long hair and also our cameras so we all had fun making crazy hair styles and
taking photos. I liked this best because we could all just have a good time and
it was an agenda free, fun spirited time which I feel like we haven't had so
much of since we've been here. Everything has been amazing but the best
experiences for me have been the unplanned instances of spontaneity that just
prove everything will work out somehow.
After a short break,
we were ready for the concert. The kids showed up in their clean clothes and
some even brought props for their numbers. They looked so cute and they were
smiling. I knew that they were ready to show everyone how much their hard work had
paid off. I was excited for them because I've been in their shoes. Bursting at
the seems with so many emotions, wanting nothing to go wrong and feeling
preemptively proud but mostly just accomplished. There was a lot of scrambling at first but
once we got everything ready to go it was so much fun! As I mentioned earlier,
I got looped into a solo for the opening number "Man in the Mirror"
and while I was anxiously practicing for that solo I was awarded a singing
partner. Chadlley, a fourteen year old boy, was kind enough to sing the part
with me only after a little practice. I can't explain what it was but even
after a short interaction I appreciated that relationship most of all the
people I'd met so far. While we were singing he was glowing. It was as if being
a part of this made him so happy and afterward we hugged each other and for
whatever reason it felt like we had been good friends for a long time. Chadlley
is the kind of kid that I know is going to make it. His enthusiasm really lit
up the entire room for me and no matter our age difference we were equal. The concert continued with dance numbers from
community members and the kids and everyone had a great time! While I was
sitting in the audience, I felt swallowed up by this community. It could have
been the worst performance ever but everyone was supporting each other,
clapping along and showing just how much they cared. In some ways this
overwhelming sense of community made me miss being home because I was thinking
of all the times I've felt proud of someone's accomplishments and wanted to
stand up and say "you mean the world to me" but at the
same time I was just
so happy.
When we arrived home
from the concert, Aunti Reeni had company. It was a woman and her husband and
their grandchild who were her close friends from when she first moved to Ocean
View. Many years ago they lived above her in their flat (apartment) in the township. They became good friends then and their
friendship is still strong today. They were also Muslim and I was happy to find
that I could relate to a lot of their values regarding marriage and other
things having to do with religion even though our religions are different. One
thing I learned is that sometimes
religion may be a barrier, it is also something that ties us all
together. Although we did not believe the exact same things we could agree that our belief in God and our
rituals were significant and important in out lives. We spoke about everything
from apartheid to religion to education and also places to visit. I really liked listening to her passion as
she told us about finding Islam and embracing the religion she loves so much.
The day before, Aunti Reeni shared with us about her experience with Haaj, the
journey to Mecca in Saudi Arabia, and how it helped her to rediscover herself
and her happiness. I was really motivated by how connected these women are in
the midst of a very Christian culture and that no matter what gets in the way
they stay true to their beliefs. One interesting thing is that they suggested
the Muslims were in the middle of apartheid. They were oppressed because of the
color of their skin but their religion teaches that all people are equal and
for that reason they felt that if they believed then they could continue living
happy lives and that the challenges would get easier. I learned that many people do not support
affirmative action and that in some ways it is continuing the history of
segregation in South Africa by giving people jobs based on their race. I
wondered why I felt differently about this situation in South Africa than I did
back home. What I realized is that I do not feel that affirmative action in
South Africa encourages diversity the same way I expect it does in America. I
feel that instead it’s an apology to those who are still suffering from the
oppressive acts of this young history. The impacts of this affirmative action
are prohibitive to many people; although blacks are able to get jobs and
earn higher incomes the classified coloureds are unable to earn their own money
because for every three blacks employed only one cloured person is given a job
in the same field. I am constantly surprised at how deep the repercussions of
apartheid years truly are. I also learned that even though so many people did
not support apartheid, some people voted for the National Party in the first
election because they felt that white people knew how to run the country best.
This was partially because they felt that the African National Party's ideas
were so radical that they were skeptical that it would work. I was thankful that I am taking a class on South African history and politics because I was able to actively participate in the conversation and ask questions. I learned a lot
from this conversation and one thing that I was surprised about was that
throughout the conversation they kept
saying things like "I'm not really racist, but…" and also "when
we say "white" we're not referring to you". I was wondering if
they were saying that because they were trying to justify everything that they
were saying or if they felt uncomfortable. It reminded me that your opinions
are valid no matter what they are and I was sad when they felt that they needed
to make excuses for or justify what they were saying. Their history runs so
deep that they cannot be faulted for their opinions because this is how people
grew up. I don't necessarily agree with many people's views regarding race here
but I definitely understand why they
said what they said. Her friend was quite the chatterbox, according to
the husband, and because of that this was one of the most informative
conversations I've had yet since being in Cape Town. I wouldn't say that the
conversation was entirely factual but I was glad to learn about their opinions.
The conversation was really lively and I was appreciative for the opportunity
to listen and learn.
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South Africa Monopoly! |
On Saturday we just
relaxed and enjoyed our time with our host family. At night, we played
Monopoly. At first the board looked just like the one we were used to. We were
shocked when we realized that it was actually the South African version. The
"boardwalk" was "Clifton" which is right by the water in a
wealthy area. Instead of railroads the board had airports. Also the board was
in Afrikaans and English. It was a fun challenge to see how many places we could
recognize. Look and see how many places you can recognize! I really liked playing a familiar game but it was also something
that was really unfamiliar at the same time.
Near the end, Savitri was losing and nearing bankruptcy so Aunti Reeni
started to give her discounts and charity. She said that if you have a lot you
should always give charity and if you have a little you should give what you
can. The game bounced between no mercy and playfulness until it was midnight
and we went to bed. When we woke up we were rested and soon fed to our fill
with roti (a traditional sort of fried dough/wrap) and fruit. Soon it was time to go and I was just thinking how amazing
it was to have had this opportunity. Many people do not get the chance to see a
different country and often when they do they live in comfortable, familiar
environments. This was real and while I was enjoying my experience I kept just
thinking how fortunate I am and while my situation in this homestay is
temporary this is someone's life and I respect the townships way more after
staying in one for even just a few days.
Just before we
arrived in Ocean View a woman said to me "it's interesting that you
Americans come all the way across the world to visit these townships and I've
lived here my whole life and I won't cross over there even to go to the
dentist". While visiting Ocean View I learned the value of community. I started to see how many people extend their families to friends and neighbors and that true family in South Africa is really special. I realized how big of a role faith plays in many people lives and I learned that supporting each other and expecting nothing in return is so important in life. After this weekend, I
feel like I want to go back to to the woman I met and say that yes I've seen violence and drug
abuse and been looked at because I am white and it is a bit scary but I've seen
happiness, support, motivation, encouragement, empowerment, religion, music, and love too
and that's why I went "over there".